I knew my dad’s arsenal of German insults would come in handy some day, I just didn’t know it would be day four of Berlin fashion week. Jale Richert and Michele Beil, the minds behind Richert Beil, titled their AW26 collection ‘Landei’. Industry-adjacent shorthand for anyone considered too provincial, too slow, too detached to participate in fashion’s preferred pace of urgency. Naturally, the duo flips the insult into a manifesto.
It all took place at a 135-year-old pharmacy, which just happens to be the brand’s new studio. In-house is the way to go. You walk in and see rows of seats, each paired with a tiny school-desk-meets-mini-banquet table, dressed in white, as if they were waiting for a Michelin star. On each, a menu listed four petite-sized courses. ‘The Rolls,’ seaweed beetroot rolls, ‘The Pillow,’ pastries stuffed with tomato purée, ‘The Shot,’ bouillon. And last but not least, ‘The Egg,’ of course. Which came in a terrifying size, served with tweezers. Because apparently that’s the only civilized way to extract the laced panties hidden inside without cracking it open. Makes perfect sense if you’ve ever gotten the guest-list email asking for “food restrictions” and “clothing size.” All brought to you by the black-and-white Richert Beil service brigade.
Fashion wise, if the brand is good at one thing, it’s tailoring, and this season was no different. Classic fine Ιtalian wool befriended cotton, lace, even latex. Beauty of tension. To no one’s surprise, there wasn’t much color, black, brown, and white was the palette. So, black. But it only works in favor of the brand, highlighting its craftsmanship and construction. Like stitched-in hints of what should probably stay under the sheets, subtle embroidery Bavarian enough it could serve pretzels, and my personal favorite, ruffled drool bibs. Don’t get me started on the casting. I saw cheekbones sharp enough to julienne your salad, gray hair and wrinkles that made you excited to age, and pretty eyes that had an ongoing flirt with the concept of being half-asleep.
Slow down. Touch things. Eat something. That’s Richert Beil in a bite, real meals, real clothes, real people.
