Demna’s Gucci Debut at Milan Fashion Week Was Very Tom Ford

Gucci Fall 2026 feels like a flashback forwards. The loud years made headlines. They also made money, the brand’s highest numbers, in fact. But Demna’s Gucci reads like a reset, a familiar one. At its most transformative, Gucci ran on clarity, and his study of ‘the Gucciness of Gucci’ implies he’s well aware, landing squarely in the Tom Ford era. Sexy was once simple, and simple rebuilt the balance sheet, which, as it turns out, is the sexiest thing of all, giving the brand room to scale into what it hadn’t yet become.

The show took place inside the darkened Palazzo delle Scintille, a former 1920s velodrome turned industrial arena, temporarily converted into something between a museum and a stage set. For the occasion, it was filled with plaster replicas of Uffizi statues, something like Gucci’s visual proof of its own ancestry. Renaissance bodies frozen in white, alongside Demi Moore, her alarmingly small dog, and Alessandro Michele, seated between Donatella Versace and Paris Hilton, watched a runway built on recalibration.

Gucci Fall 2026 runway look at Milan Fashion Week
@gucci via Instagram

“Gucci is a brand, but it is also a shared cultural touchpoint that speaks to a wide variety of people, reflected in the range of archetypes, tastes, identities, and dress codes of Primavera: a palette of stylistic propositions for those the House already speaks to, and those I hope for it to speak to,” read the opening of the collection’s notes. The show opened with that same sense of palette cleansing, a seamless minidress in white hosiery fabric. Fluid tailoring, tracksuits, trousers that looked more like leggings, low-cut jackets, leather and lace, all followed.

Gucci Fall 2026 runway look at Milan Fashion Week
@gucci via Instagram

The boys were all about T-shirts so tight you half-expected an artery to snap. Meanwhile, the girls could fund a small country with their sparkle. Amelia Gray in black, Emily Ratajkowski in silver, Alex Consani in gold, and Kate Moss in a backless dress that gave a good hint of her double-G G-string with 10-carats of diamonds. My personal favorite was six looks earlier, a high-collar, long-sleeve maxi embroidered in purple, green, and gold florals.

Gucci Fall 2026 runway look at Milan Fashion Week
@gucci via Instagram

“Do you know what Gucci is? It’s not just a brand It’s a word we use to describe a certain state of mind. If you feel Gucci, it means you want to do stuff and be crazy and meet people and be, like, out there,” Demna’s 16-year-old cousin told him, Vogue shares. “I see Gucci as a person. Someone with a wild, unforgettable past and unmistakable codes. Someone fully aware of who they are. Yet restless, curious, hungry to evolve, to surprise, to be surprised, to challenge and to be challenged, to be respected, to be desired,” his show’s notes added, “It has become clear to me what my mission here really is. Above the product, Gucci is culture, it is a way of thinking and a way of being. Gucci needs to become a feeling. Gucci must become an adjective.” Seems like he got the memo, the slang too.

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