Niclas Treinen, a Germany-based illustrator, released a superb animated mini-series focusing on the beloved Netflix series Mindhunter.
Mindhunter, a series which was created by Joe Penhall, is know in its second season. It focus on the bestseller book Mindhunter: Inside the FBI’s Elite Serial Crime Unit by John E. Douglas and Mark Olshaker. The series stars Jonathan Groff, Holt McCallany, Hannah Gross
,Cotter Smith among many other talented actors who have managed to portray the serial killers with great conviction.
In terms of the artwork, Treinen has managed to utilise stunning colour, lighting and shapes to create a mystical and dark type feel to the cartoons that would be perfect for a comic book.
Poster Girl, a label known for their structured chainmail designs, took a different turn in their Spring Summer 2020 collection by showcasing flowing and organic forms, developed using a hand marbling technique that involves an intricate dye process on their signature material — marking a new phase of Poster Girl.
Co-founders, Francesca Capper and Natasha Somerville, developed a collection inspired by nymph-like creatures and young lovers, paying specific homage to Titania and Helene from A Midsummer Night’s Dream by William Shakespeare.
London-based Poster Girl was launched in 2017 by designers Francesca Capper and Natasha Somerville. The duo met at Central Saint Martin’s whilst studying womenswear and joined together after working for several fashion houses including Christian Dior, Vivienne Westwood, Jeremy Scott, Bvlgari and Alexander Wang.
Deborah Lyons, a label which is led by the designer Deborah Lyons and which began its journey in 2016, presented their Spring Summer 2020 at the London Fashion Week. The collection pays tribute to romanticised British adolescence, the yearning for widening horizons, strive for identity, and above all a desire for the unknown.
Staying in touch with the brand’s ethos, Lyons returned to partner with some of Britain’s finest mills, maintaining her affinity for Scottish tartans and tweeds from the Lake Districts, celebrating these traditional crafted heritage fabrics to create a youthful collection that pleases the eye.
The election of the mills and the luxurious local textiles complement the timelessness of the tailoring, while the East London Garment District’s production parallels the modernity of the Deborah Lyons’ woman.
The overall collection by Deborah Lyons has a stunning essence that looks to stand the test of time with its modernity and classiness.
On|Off, the show which never disappoints appeared at the London Fashion Week once again. This time presenting new work from designers Colin Horgan, Daniel Pascal Tanner, JimmyPaul, Rose Danford-Phillips, and Yan Dengyu.
Now in its 17th year, On|Off Presents… showcased a variety of designers that delivered a vibrant and dynamic show.
Over the years, On|Off Presents… has included designers such as JW Anderson, Louise Gray, Yang Du, Mark Fast, Timothy Bouyez Forge and Jack Irving — just to name a few.
JimmyPaul
JimmyPaul joined Hello Kitty in a collaboration which marked their London Fashion Week debut.
Daniel Pascal Tanner
Tanner’s interest in historical fashion as a way of personal escapism was the inspiration behind this collection.
Yan Dengyu
Yan Dengyu’s conceptual collection is inspired by the human figure and his desire of colour. The black bodysuit is the basis of Yan’s Spring Summer 20 collection.
Rose Danford-Phillips
Rose Danford-Phillips’ collection Kiss of the Earth is inspired by the wild, sublime energy of nature in Spring and Summer. Among the artistic inspirations of this collection are Stravinsky’s legendary The Rite of Spring, Hilma af Klint’s The 10 Largest, Rachel Ruysch, and Madeline Miller’s Circle.
Colin Horgan
Colin Horgan, an Irish-born designer, presented a woman of today faced with post-human obstacles for Spring Summer 2020.
Vin + Omi, a duo known for their focus on social and environmental issues, presented their latest SS20 catwalk at The Savoy Hotel, yesterday. The show which was widely talked about due to its connection with the Prince of Wales and focus on sustainable fashion did not disappoint. Bringing on a strong stance against fast fashion, Vin + Omi displayed a flurry of artistic and inspiring pieces. The juxtaposing look of the glamorous Savoy Hotel and recycled-like clothing brought in a mood of rebellion at the show that felt it was heard.
Additionally, as in previous shows, Vin + Omi used a variety of models, which made it that more human and more impactful. The overall show did what Vin + Omi set out to do — thus deservedly should be praised.
“You can screw each other but stop fucking the planet. Screw yourselves but stop fucking the planet”
Hailing from Los Angeles, singer-songwriter Sofia Wolfson expressed her interest in music at quite an early age. She started playing shows at 13, and at 16 she had already released her debut album, 2016’s Hunker Down. More mature and confident in her songwriting, Sofia recently released her latest EP, Adulting, for which she reunited with producer Marshall Vore (Phoebe Bridgers, Better Oblivion Community Center), who worked on her previous EP, 2017’s Side Effects. Adulting confronts the process of coming-of-age with stark honesty: “I comprehend it’s my time/ To make a plan and figure out/ How to understand/ Who I will be/ But ain’t it so nice/ To get a hand held/ From time to time,” she sings on ‘Self-Fulfilled Prophecy’, while on the standout ‘Nothing’s Real’ she tries to find “something to explain how immature/ I get when living gets real.” But there’s a sense of warmth to the instrumentals that makes all this youthful uncertainty feel natural, even bearable. Take the breezy opener ‘Hotel Room’, for example, which features one of Wolfson’s most dynamic performances as she sings about a long-distance relationship: “I’m in a hotel room half way across these United States/ I want to hold you but I’m a ghost of LA.” Meanwhile, tracks like ‘Probably Paradise’ and ‘Self-Fulfilled Prophecy’ have a kind of classic rock edge that nicely juxtaposes the distinctly modern, lo-fi singer-songwriter vibe of the EP. If you’re a fan of artists like Phoebe Bridgers and Lucy Dacus, definitely check out what Sofia Wolfson has to offer.
We caught up with Sofia for this edition of our Artist Spotlight segment, where we showcase up-and-coming artists and give them a chance to talk a bit about their music.
You started playing shows and writing music quite early on. What was it that drew you to music in the first place?
My dad is a musician so there have always been guitars around the house. I was obsessed with The Band when I was younger and would watch The Last Waltz on a loop, learning all the songs and studying the interviews. I started writing songs in elementary school about simple stuff like friends and sleepover drama (I still have demos of these). Once I got a bit more serious about songwriting, I started booking shows when I was 13, playing all around town, which is crazy now that I reflect on it. But ultimately I’m thankful for all the lessons growing up in LA taught me.
How do you feel your approach to songwriting has evolved since you released your debut album at the age of sixteen?
I think that I’m more willing to dive into what makes me uncomfortable. My anxiety has always taught me to limit my words. But now, I’m not as afraid to address someone specifically in songs, or sing about subjects that are hard to talk about. I always try to write songs thinking that nobody will ever hear them. That way, I can be the most honest.
Your new EP, Adulting, deals with feelings many people transitioning into adulthood experience. How was it like writing about that period of uncertainty?
I’ve always gone through periods where I get frustrated trying to write/come up with ideas, but these songs came a bit more naturally. Growing up is a really immersive, overwhelming feeling and it felt during that time like there was so much to write about. But even though it came more easily, it was still a difficult process. Often I’d play demos back and be reminded of days I felt a certain way. It’s a natural feeling to want to escape the gloom but the songs during this period forced me to face what felt difficult.
I especially love ‘Nothing’s Real’, for which you’ve just released a new video. How was it like shooting those visuals?
So fun. My friend William Lancaster is an incredible filmmaker and had the vision for the video. He had to teach himself all these practical and special effects to pull it off. We really weren’t sure how it was going to go but once we were on set it all started coming together.
How was it like working with Marshall Vore as your producer?
Marsh is the best. He’s both a songwriter and a drummer so he’s got so many incredible ideas for how to frame a song while still illuminating the words. And he has a ton of crazy gear. Everyone should follow him on Instagram for prime content.
On songs like ‘Nothing’s Real’ and ‘Self-Fulfilled Prophecy’, you open up about figuring out who you want to be, how you “got no plan, nowhere to turn”. Do you feel that more young adults these days struggle with that?
Totally. This is the problem with social media. The constant comparison with others and the perpetual presentation of yourself through photos and captions and videos. But the truth is everyone is going through it and trying to figure it out. That’s an aspect that influenced some of the Adulting songs. As well as being in college and feeling like everyone around you is doing so much more than you. I can’t speak on behalf of 20-year-olds everywhere (ha) but it’s definitely something I know a lot of people in my circles experience.
Following that, I hope it’s okay to ask: Where do you see yourself going from here?
I’m not exactly sure what’s next but that’s what I love about playing music. Logistically, I’ve got a single coming out in the near future, something I recorded in a session before Adulting. I’m playing a lot of shows in town coming up and will be in London in January. And I’ve got a ton of new tunes I’m hoping to record soon. So stay tuned!
Ana Teixeira de Sousa, the designer behind Sophia Kah, released another timeless collection for London Fashion Week. The collection takes inspiration from Teixeira de Sousa’s native Portugal, more specifically the village of Comporta.
Keeping the bond to the youthfulness of the brand’s tasteful aesthetic, the label explored lightweight linens with hand embroidery mirror the craftsmanship — something Comporta is beloved for. In terms of colours, the collection mostly flourished on light colours reminding us of the warm sun and brisk sea blues.
This collection marks another step forward for Sophia Kah, a label that has been growing consistently since its inception.
In this weekly segment, we review the most notable albums out each Friday and pick our album of the week. Here are this week’s releases:
Charli XCX,Charli
On her much-anticipated third album and follow-up to her brilliantly futuristic 2017 mixtape Pop 2, Charli XCX brings together the seemingly conflicting elements that have defined her career so far and polishes her sound to create a more defining Charli XCX experience (hence the title). It’s not so much a departure from the bold and forward-thinking Pop 2, as an attempt to infiltrate the mainstream by infusing it with a more conventional millenial pop sound. Oddly enough, it’s a successful approach; especially on tracks like the utterly infectious lead single, ‘Gone’, featuring Christine and the Queens, which A.G. Cook, head of the experimental pop label PC Music (and longtime Charli collaborator) co-produced alongside Lotus IV, known for his work with the likes of Avicii, Alessia Cara, David Guetta, and more. The most impressive tracks are ultimately the ones that are the most out-there in terms of production, including the feature-heavy ‘Click’ and the abrasively sultry ‘Shake It’, but the straight-up bubblegum moments can be just as fun, as with the nostalgic ‘1999’ (‘Blame it On Your Love’ feat. Lizzo and produced by Stargate, on the other hand, is disappointingly vapid). Charli gets quite personal as well as she explores the intricacies of commitment, leading to some of her most endearingly candid songwriting in a while, as with the heartfelt ‘Official’ or the deeply confessional ‘Thoughts’: “Did I lose it all? Did I fuck it up?/ Are my friends really friends now or are they far gone?” she sings. Charli not only further proves that no one quite does pop like Charli XCX, but that eccentric and accessible, noisy and sweet, need not be mutually exclusive.
Rating: 8/10
Highlights: ‘Gone’, ‘1999’ feat. Troye Sivan, ‘Click’ feat. Kim Petras and Tommy Cash, ‘Official’, ‘Silver Cross’, ‘Shake It’ feat. Big Freedia, CupcakKe, Brooke Candy, and Pabllo Vittar, ‘Thoughts’, ‘I Don’t Wanna Know’
Chelsea Wolfe, Birth of Violence
Many may have forgotten that, before becoming every metalhead’s favorite singer-songwriter, Chelsea Wolfe was predominantly an alternative folk singer – a kind of darker version of Lana Del Rey. Wolfe’s sixth studio album, Birth of Violence, is her return to those dark folk roots following her foray into experimental/doom metal with 2015’s excellent Abyss and 2017’s somewhat more forgettable but equally impressive Hiss Spun. Recorded in solitude at her home in Northern California, the album is heavily atmospheric rather than melody-driven, and thanks to its consistent formula, one of her most cohesive efforts yet. Stripped down acoustic guitars accompany Wolfe’s mystical lyrics and haunting delivery and allow them to shine – although what they do is not so much shine, as, well, darken – but the atmosphere in each strong progressively builds into a more fleshed-out, unnerving whole. The subject matter also elevates this album, as it creatively explores issues of contemporary womanhood through archetypal, medieval-type language: take ‘Be All Things’, for example, where Wolfe struggles to navigate between and beyond the binary confines of femininity: “I want to be all things/ Warriors, newborns, and queens/ The lion and the sheep.”
Rating: 7/10
Highlights: ‘The Mother Road’, ‘American Darkness’, ‘ Deranged for Rock & Roll’, ‘Be All Things’
Album of the Week: (Sandy) Alex G, House of Sugar
While it was extremely hard to pick the album of the week this week with so many great new releases, I have decided to give that spot to indie singer-songwriter Alex Giannascoli’s second album under the (Sandy) Alex G moniker for being the most thematically focused and transcendent of the bunch. House of Sugar is a hypnotically alluring exploration of addiction and overindulgence that’s unafraid to dig into the scariest and most selfish corners of the human psyche. Like his previous release, 2017’s Rocket, it features a cleaner sound than most of his prior lo-fi output (especially on tracks such as the standout ‘Souther Sky’), as well as frequent sonic experimentation that renders any obvious Elliott Smith comparisons practically inadequate, although here the experimentation is more carefully employed. The vocal repetition on tracks like ‘Walk Away’, ‘Taking’, and ‘Near’, set against dynamically chaotic layers of instrumentation, perfectly evokes the psychological struggle of addiction, that endless cycle of wanting to walk away and falling back in, and the music itself feels like a descent into madness itself. ‘Gretel’, the most potent track here, is a dark retelling of the classic Grimms’ story that imagines Gretel leaving her brother to die at the candy house, but then being overtaken by the selfish desire to go back herself to eat more candy. The sonically ambitious and imposing ‘Sugar’ is the climax of the album, the moment where that ecstatic high seems to take its own form. If there’s even a tiny glimmer of hope, it’s to be found on the closing track: “When our children go digging for answers/ I hope they can put me together again,” Giannascoli sings.
Following up his critically acclaimed 2018 album Veteran, JPEGMAFIA’s latest is a chaotically daring experimental hip-hop odyssey. It earns your attention right away with the opening single and catchiest song on here, ‘Jesus Forgive Me, I Am a Thot’, but when that hard-hitting electric guitar hits on ‘Kenan Vs. Kel’, more reminiscent of Swans than anyone else in hip-hop at the moment, you know you’re in for something exceptional. ‘Beta Male Strategies’ impresses just as much, as Peggy does what he does best lyrically: confronting internet trolls. There was never any doubt that JPEGMAFIA is a one-of-a-kind, inventive artist, but his production on All My Heroes Are Cornballs is his most dynamic, abrasive, and complex yet. Stylistic layers mesh throughout each song, and the structure is deliberately disjointed – it’s hard to even tell when there’s a track change, making the listening experience a particularly engaging and refreshing one. While Peggy is also a skilled rapper and lyricist, production is undoubtedly where he shines the most – in fact, what keeps this record from being an undisputed masterpiece is that despite the saturated, hyper-aware nature of his lyrics, the album lacks the kind of depth and evocative story-telling that would take this to another level (with a few notable exceptions, namely ‘Free the Frail’ and ‘Post Verified Lifestyle’). Tracks like ‘JPEGMAFIA TYPE BEAT’, as hilarious as they are – in this case poking fun at how fans compare JPEGMAFIA’s instrumentals to Death Grips – have little to no replay value. Still, this is further proof that JPEGMAFIA is only one step away from making a true classic.
Rating: 8/10
Highlights: ‘Jesus Forgive Me, I Am a Thot’, ‘Kenan Vs. Kel’, ‘Beta Male Strategies’, ‘Free the Frail’ feat. Helena Deland, ‘All My Heroes are Cornballs’, ‘Thot Tactics’, ‘Grimy Waifu’
Alex Cameron, Miami Memory
Alex Cameron’s previous release, 2017’s Forced Witness, was rightly praised for its witty portrayal of toxic masculinity from the perspective of a man. So Cameron saying in a press statement that there’s no “twist” or “joke” in Miami Memory, and that’s it’s instead a sincere love letter to his partner, could have been seen as a potential concern. Miami Memory does indeed have its genuinely heartfelt and romantic moments: “Our love is strong like a city in Miami Memory,” he sings on the title track. But make no mistake: Cameron’s engaging sense of humour is still all over this album, whether he plays a character or himself. Right before singing that line, he proudly talks about “the way you came like a tsunami” after “eating your ass like an oyster”. Yeah. Bringing back the gender commentary that made Forced Witness stand out, ‘Far from Born Again’ is a sex-positive feminist song about a sex worker who “earns more than a man” and “buys her own damn meals” while “you sit at home and masturbate”, while on the tongue-in-cheek ‘Bad for the Boys’ Cameron employs a Thin Lizzy-esque vocal delivery while commenting on the #ΜeToo movement. Treading the line between heartwarmingly cheesy and cheekily satirical, Miami Memory ultimately manages to provide insight the messy nature of a distinctly modern relationship with wit and genuine emotion over a series of supremely catchy and retro-leaning instrumentals.
Rating: 8/10
Highlights: ‘Stepdad’, ‘Miami Memory’, ‘Far from Born Again’, ‘Gaslight’, ‘Bad for the Boys’, ‘PC with Me’
Alice Archer presented a vibrant SS20 collection at London Fashion Week. The collection takes inspiration from the watercolour paintings of Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
In this collection, Archer Alice has executed floral subjects through the application of painterly methods and then reaffirmed them in firm drawn outlines. With excellent execution and elegant use of material and colour, Archer has established herself as a designer to watch.
Alice Archer, a British designer, graduated from RCA in 2013, having studied fine art at Goldsmiths and Central Saint Martins. After moving to Antwerp to work as an embroidery designer for Dries van Noten, Archer produced her first Alice Archer capsule collection exclusively for Browns in the UK.
Get ready for the Modern Art version of “The Song That Never Ends”.
Last Year at Marienbad (1961) is a beautiful, baffling product of Franco-Italian cinema, written by Alain Robbe-Grillet and directed by Alain Resnais. Having seen it, you might have an existential crisis that lasts a year…or a day…or an hour. Time has no meaning in Marienbad. Or Frederiksbad. Or wherever we are. Readers, there are a lot more or‘s where those came from. This is a ‘non-narrative film’. And it is truly remarkable.
A bourgeois time loop.
Not being told a story has never been more fun. In this ancient, elegant hotel, wealthy souls wander casually in a time loop. We begin with an ASMR overview of our chic hotel.
Robbe-Grillet ingratiates viewers into this silent, reverent world with a hypnotic monologue that repeats like an infinite funeral dirge: “These corridors…these salons and galleries…this edifice of a bygone era…this sprawling, sumptuous, Baroque, gloomy hotel.”
The words are even more sensuous and mysterious in their original French. As we hear them, Resnais provides the images: magnificent vaulted ceilings, gold-leaved chandeliers, foreboding hallways and, finally, stone-faced people.
We realize belatedly that the monologue we hear is part of a performance… Or is it?… The hotel has staged a play, about a woman hesitant to run off with her lover. A bell chimes. “Voila.” She is his. The play ends, and the camera patrols the hotel with impartiality. We seem to be eavesdropping on every monotonous conversation, the weather, the frustration of a lover, all made in the same doleful tone. Then, in a graceful and imperceptible transition, we find our central characters: A, X, and M.
At least those are the names they were gifted in Robbe-Grillet’s screenplay. In magical realist’s castle names are immaterial. All that matters is what Xinsists: that he and A met last year, in a place much like this one. They were passionate lovers and she must run away with him.
It becomes apparent that the handsome X (Giorgio Albertazzi) is our voiceover artist as well as the black-tied shadow compelling and repelling A around every corner. A (Delphine Seyrig) wards him off with stunning costumes by Chanel, an artfully poised arm, and hushed supplications: “I don’t know you. Please, leave me alone.” The next moment, they’re dancing, not quite cheek to cheek. Then, a scream! All the while, M, who may or may not be A’s husband, hovers nearby, a vulture with a diabolical acuity for parlor games.
Peut-être.
What happens next? There is no next. Scenes float and cut in and out of each other without warning. A walks down a corridor wearing a black dress, then continues her walk in white. X is seen firing a gun. A, inside, seems to hear it and holds her hand to her heart. But the camera pans out and X is there beside her, telling her their ever-fleeting, ever-repeating story.
We, the audience, are uncertain who remembers whom, what is real and what is a flashback. Is this last year or this year? What events are true? In answer, our characters exercise the word ‘peut-être’ – perhaps. “Perhaps it was in another room.” Or, “It is not true – peut-être.”
The same phrases are heard again and again, as A and X rigidly walk the hollow halls, the geometric garden. And let’s not forget the pounding organ that is our almost constant background music. These elements combine to create an almost narcotic film, one that lulls you even as your heart begins to race. Watching Last Year at Marienbad, one cannot help but feel mind-snatched by Resnais. The crisp parallels between black and white, the reappearances of objects, words and signs, and the ever-more-chilling X voiceovers hold you captive and set your eyes swinging.
Then – snap! – you’re startled from the trance. X, the harmless narrator, encounters slips in his narrative. I’m particularly captivated by the scene below. Is A’s memory faulty? Or is X losing control of the scene? Meanwhile, changes suggest X took A by force. “No,” X screams as we careen down a white hallway, “No! It was not by force!”
Was it by force? Did the two meet last year? Or, did X meet A in her hotel room, again and again over countless Marienbad years? Can they run away together? Do we hope they do? These and more questions are rolling in the viewer’s mind – a spinning lottery wheel of questions and theories. Instead of digging desperately for the answer, let’s appreciate a few possibilities.
Le fin, le début, le fin, le début…
Some believe Last Year at Marienbad is a retelling of the Orpheus and Eurydice tale, in which the son of Calliope attempts to return his wife from the land of the dead. This would explain the classical statues that “might as well be you and me” (says X), as well as the violent effort from X to make A ‘alive’ through their affair. A broad version of that theory may find Marienbad an analysis of existence and time. Black, white, death, life, sex, rape, all pass through the world in repetition, without reason and without end.
Then again, maybe it’s a socialist’s tale. Or a feminist’s lament. Maybe it’s a satirist’s jab at élite resort-goers, fashionably at their leisure in the middle of the Algerian War. Whatever your take may be, Last Year at Marienbad is a jewel of the Left Bank – and of film itself. I believe Harry Medved, author of The Fifty Worst Films of All Time, deserves a good smack for including Marienbad in his list of dishonours.
Last Year at Marienbad is a film that unlocks story and unravels an audience. Its cinematic prowess incites rapture and tension, even in the monotonous, grey nothing developing on screen. We leap to the edges of our seats to compensate for the emotionless glances, the silence, the corridors, the salons, the galleries… In this case of hypnosis, we feel everything and continue to do so long after le fin. So, we sit back, rewind the trance – and watch all over again.
Get ready for the Modern Art version of “The Song That Never Ends”.