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Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2021 at Milan Fashion Week

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Italian Designer Giorgio Armani presented Emporio Armani’s 2021 fall-winter ready-to-wear collection titled In the Mood for Pop. The collection revisited the ’80s, particularly the time after the economic crisis of the ’70s. The show had Emporio Armani exhibited across the background with the runway in neon lights bringing back the ’80s vibe. The collection gives us pops of colours like pinks, blues, purples and largely greys and black. There is a combination of formal wear and loungewear garments in this collection. The loungewear is made to look sophisticated with the added neck scarf and beret. The collection has a relaxed fit, some with baggy trousers, wide-leg trousers and long outerwear. Key fabrics that Giorgio uses are wool, leather, velvet, and faux fur. There’s also a mixture of textures of the cable knits, mix of herringbone, and pinstripe patterns. Throughout the collection, accessories are utilised to style the outfits.

Watch the full fashion show here.

    

Moschino Fall/Winter 2021

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Moschino presented their womenswear 2021 fall-winter collection titled Jungle Red. Creative Director Jeremy Scott showcased a lady’s everyday life showing us business, leisure, and travel. Moschino reminds us no matter the scene, “you should always consider one thing: wearing Jungle Red!.” The collection combines glamour and fantasy, something we can only wonder about whilst being in a pandemic. Jeremy Scott envisioned something fun and dramatic. There are cows in the field motif; he uses a sack of potatoes as dresses, models covered in paint to look like art and bold prints. There is a mixture of creative pattern cutting and classical looks with an edge. It is like watching a mini collection within a collection.

Watch the full fashion film here.

Album Review: Julien Baker, ‘Little Oblivions’

More so than many of her indie rock counterparts, it’s almost impossible not to recognize some part of yourself in Julien Baker’s music. The Tennessee singer-songwriter offered an easy way in, laying her inner demons bare on her 2015 debut, Sprained Ankle, before coating her self-lacerating lyrics in the refined minimalism of 2017’s breakout Turn Out the Lights. A year later, she formed a powerhouse trio called boygenius with Phoebe Bridgers and Lucy Dacus, two songwriters who rose to prominence around the same time as her. Though it made entirely too much sense, some might not have guessed that Baker’s brand of introspective songwriting could have the same impact in a more collaborative context. But as she tells it, the stripped-back nature of her debut was almost incidental: she originally wanted to record the songs with Forrister, the Memphis band she was playing with at the time, but they couldn’t get off work, and she didn’t want to waste studio time. “Those songs are just things I cobbled together alone in college because I didn’t have my boys with me,” she said in a recent interview. “To me it sounds like a scratch track where all the instruments are missing.”

Fast forward to January 2021, and the now 25-year-old, usually a solitary presence on stage, is playing The Late Show with Stephen Colbert with a full-band that includes Matt Gilliam from Forrister on drums. She’s performing ‘Faith Healer’, the lead single off her third album, Little Oblivions, which embraces that full-band sound and expands her palette in bolder and more noticeable ways than Turn Out the Lights did. The revitalized approach creates exciting new dynamics that will no doubt sound great live, but what’s more intriguing on record is that Baker handled most of the instrumentation herself, with some unspecified “additional instrumentation” by engineer Calvin Lauber. This is more than just a fleshing-out of her sound – rather than hiding in the layers of guitars, bass, synths, and drums, she uses them to carve new spaces that accentuate not just the bracing intimacy of her songwriting but also its emotional intensity and depth. Even when songs like ‘Hardline’, ‘Faith Healer’, ‘Ringside’ reach soaring heights that lend credence to Baker’s claim that “we’re basically a post rock band now”, they’re not meant to offer an emotional release as much as evoke the constant push-and-pull of striving for some form of escape and trying not to give in to your most destructive impulses.

Both in her music and in a seemingly endless series of interviews, Baker has been incredibly open about her struggles with substance abuse and mental illness and how they inform her new record. More than ever before, the music feels like a vehicle rather than a cushion for her achingly vulnerable lyrics and raw, powerful vocals: “I can see where this is going, but I can’t find the brakes,” she sings on opener ‘Hardline’, and though the album never quite veers off course to indicate a total loss of control, Baker nails the looming feeling of never knowing when you just might sink into that hopeless state – she even hints at that disintegrating sense of self on ‘Repeat’, where her vocals become increasingly distorted as she loops the titular word until it merges with the instrumental. ‘Heatwave’ is at first a jaunty, delicate tune complete with banjo and a sprightly synth melody, before shifting gears halfway through to subtly mirror the downward spiral that Baker sings about as she promises to “wrap Orion’s belt around my neck/ And kick the chair out.”

Though it all still sounds exceptionally pretty and tastefully arranged, the production never undercuts the bleakness of Baker’s confessionals as much as it reveals the urgency to build something beautiful out of it. But for the most part, Baker lets go of the impulse to offer some semblance of hope or resolution – as the final track on Turn Out the Lights did – and is more interested in sincere expression than attempting to tie up a narrative that’s inherently messy and non-linear. Her lyrics are more confrontational and ruthlessly self-critical: “What if it’s all black, baby, all the time?” she posits as soon as the record starts; on ‘Favor’, an ode to friendship in which she’s joined by her boygenius bandmates, she asks, “What right had you not to let me die?” Rather than deflecting blame, she accepts all of it (“I wish that I drank because of you and not only because of me”) while shielding herself from empathy (“It’s too kind of you to say you can help/ But there’s no one around who can save me from myself”).

Julien Baker’s music may not have lost any of its uncomfortable honesty, but one of her gifts as a songwriter is that she remains approachable even at her most heart-wrenching. It’s why, even as she digs into the most disturbing nuances of her experience, honing her strengths as both a storyteller and a vocalist, Little Oblivions never becomes a particularly difficult listen, and it never alienates the listener. Baker doesn’t wallow in despair or self-pity, but she also doesn’t set her harsh self-reflections against a sweeping canvas in order to give the false impression of achieving triumph or redemption. Underneath it all is a self-aware portrait of survival in the midst of personal crisis, and if there’s a battle the album proves she’s won, it’s that of staying true to yourself – even when you’re not exactly sure what that entails, or where it leaves you. And if her music continues to serve as a conduit for catharsis, it’s in tracing that journey – not necessarily relating to the trauma itself – that it retains a visceral resonance.

This Week’s Best New Songs: Nick Cave, Flock of Dimes, Half Waif, and More

Throughout the week, we update our Best New Songs playlist with the new releases that caught our attention the most, be it a single leading up to the release of an album or a newly unveiled deep cut. And each Monday, we round up the best new songs released over the past week (the eligibility period begins on Monday and ends Sunday night) in this segment.

The big music news last week was the surprise release of Nick Cave and Warren Ellis’ first non-soundtrack album as a duo, Carnage, of which the menacing six-minute epic ‘White Elephant’ is the clear centerpiece. ‘Ringside’ is a soaring non-single highlight from Julien Baker’s new album Little Oblivions, while Jenn Wasner’s latest as Flock of Dimes is a slow-burning stunner. Half Waif offers just enough hope on her dreamy, memorable new track ‘Party’s Over’; Kero Kero Bonito delivered the bright and playful ‘The Princess and the Clock’; and finally, Noname returned with her first single of the year, ‘Rainforest’, which sets her complex, insightful lyricism against a jazz-inflected instrumental.

Best New Songs: March 1, 2021

Half Waif, ‘Party’s Over’

Flock of Dimes, ‘Price of Blue’

Kero Kero Bonito, ‘The Princess and the Clock’

Song of the Week: Nick Cave & Warren Ellis, ‘White Elephant’

Julien Baker, ‘Ringside’

Noname, ‘Rainforest’

2021 Golden Globes Winners: The Full List

The 2021 Golden Globe Awards took place on Sunday night (February 29) after being delayed for nearly two months due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Netflix dominated the nominations with 42 going into the night, scoring 10 wins for shows and movies including The Crown, The Queen’s Gambit, The Trial of the Chicago 7, and Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom. Chloé Zhao made history as the second woman and first woman of colour to win Best Director for Nomadland, which also won Best Motion Picture – Drama, and Chadwick Boseman won a posthumous award for his role as a blues trumpeter in Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom. Sacha Baron Cohen took home two awards for Borat Subsequent Moviefilm, while Schitt’s Creek was named Best TV Comedy and gave star Catherine O’Hara a win as well. Best Original Score went to Trent Reznor and Atticus Ross for Soul, which also nabbed the trophy for Best Animated Feature Film.

Check out the complete list of winners below.

Film

Best Motion Picture, Drama
The Father
Nomadland
Mank
The Trial of the Chicago 7
Promising Young Woman

Best Actor in a Motion Picture, Drama
Riz Ahmed, Sound of Metal”
Chadwick Boseman, Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom
Anthony Hopkins, The Father
Gary Oldman, Mank
Tahar Rahim, The Mauritanian

Best Actress in a Motion Picture, Drama
Viola Davis, Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom
Andra Day, The United States vs. Billie Holiday
Vanessa Kirby, Pieces of a Woman
Frances McDormand, Nomadland
Carey Mulligan, Promising Young Woman

Best Motion Picture, Comedy or Musical
Borat Subsequent Moviefilm
Hamilton
Palm Springs
The Prom
Music

Best Actor in a Motion Picture, Comedy or Musical
Sacha Baron Cohen, Borat Subsequent Moviefilm
Lin-Manuel Miranda, Hamilton
Dev Patel, The Personal History of David Copperfield
Andy Samberg, Palm Springs
James Corden, The Prom

Best Actress in a Motion Picture, Comedy or Musical
Maria Bakalova, Borat Subsequent Moviefilm
Michelle Pfeiffer, French Exit
Anya Taylor-Joy, Emma.
Rosamund Pike, I Care A Lot
Kate Hudson, Music

Best Director
Emerald Fennell, Promising Young Woman
David Fincher, Mank
Regina King, One Night in Miami
Aaron Sorkin, The Trial of the Chicago 7
Chloé Zhao, Nomadland

Best Screenplay
Promising Young Woman
Mank
The Trial of the Chicago 7
The Father
Nomadland

Best Supporting Actor in a Motion Picture
Jared Leto, The Little Things
Daniel Kaluuya, Judas and the Black Messiah
Bill Murray, On the Rocks
Leslie Odom Jr, One Night in Miami
Sacha Baron Cohen, The Trial of the Chicago 7 

Best Supporting Actress in a Motion Picture
Glenn Close, Hillbilly Elegy
Olivia Colman, The Father
Jodie Foster, The Mauritanian
Amanda Seyfried, Mank
Helena Zengel, News of the World

Best Original Score
Mank – Trent Reznor, Atticus Ross
News of the World – James Newton Howard
Soul – Trent Reznor, Atticus Ross, Jon Batiste
Tenet – Ludwig Göransson
The Midnight Sky – Alexandre Desplat

Best Original Song
‘Fight for You’ from Judas and the Black Messiah – H.E.R., Dernst Emile II, Tiara Thomas
‘Hear My Voice’ from The Trial of the Chicago 7 – Daniel Pemberton, Celeste
‘Io Si (Seen)’ from The Life Ahead – Diane Warren, Laura Pausini, Niccolò Agliardi
‘Speak Now’ from One Night in Miami – Leslie Odom Jr, Sam Ashworth
“Tigress & Tweed” from The United States vs. Billie Holliday 

Best Animated Feature Film
Onward
Over the Moon
Soul
Wolfwalkers
The Croods: A New Age

Best Foreign Language Film
Another Round
La Llorona
The Life Ahead
Minari
Two of Us

TV

Best TV Series, Drama
The Mandalorian
The Crown
Lovecraft Country
Ozark
Ratched

Best Actor in a TV Series, Drama
Jason Bateman, Ozark
Josh O’Connor, The Crown
Bob Odenkirk,Better Call Saul
Al Pacino, Hunters
Matthew Rhys, Perry Mason

Best Actress in a TV Series, Drama
Olivia Colman, The Crown
Emma Corrin, The Crown
Jody Comer, Killing Eve
Laura Linney, Ozark
Sarah Paulson, Ratched

Best TV Series, Musical or Comedy
Emily in Paris
The Flight Attendant
Schitt’s Creek
The Great
Ted Lasso

Best Actor in a TV Series, Musical or Comedy
Jason Sudeikis, Ted Lasso

Ramy Youssef, Ramy
Eugene Levy, Schitt’s Creek
Nicholas Hoult, The Great
Don Cheadle, Black Monday

Best Actress in a TV Series, Musical or Comedy
Kaley Cuoco, The Flight Attendant
Elle Fanning, The Great
Catherine O’Hara, Schitt’s Creek
Lily Collins, Emily in Paris
Jane Levy, Zoey’s Extraordinary Playlist

Best TV Movie or Limited-Series
The Queen’s Gambit

The Undoing
Unorthodox
Normal People
Small Axe

Best Actor in a Series, Limited-Series or TV Movie
Bryan Cranston, Your Honor
Jeff Daniels, The Comey Rule
Hugh Grant, The Undoing
Ethan Hawke, The Good Lord Bird
Mark Ruffalo, I Know This Much Is True

Best Actress in a Series, Limited-Series or TV Movie
Cate Blanchett, Mrs. America
Anya Taylor-Joy, The Queen’s Gambit
Shira Haas, Unorthodox
Nicole Kidman, The Undoing
Daisy Edgar-Jones, Normal People

Best Supporting Actor in a Series, Limited-Series or TV Movie
John Boyega, Small Axe

Brendan Gleeson, The Comey Rule
Dan Levy, Schitt’s Creek
Jim Parsons, Hollywood
Donald Sutherland, The Undoing

Best Supporting Actress in a Series, Limited-Series, or TV Movie
Gillian Anderson, 
The Crown
Annie Murphy, Schitt’s Creek
Helena Bonham Carter, The Crown
Julia Garner, Ozark
Cynthia Nixon, Ratched

Prada Fall/Winter 2021 at Milan Fashion Week

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Prada presented their 2021 fall-winter womenswear collection Possible feelings II: Transmute at Milan Fashion Week. Designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons were inspired “by the idea of change and transformation, opening possibilities.” The collection explores contradiction with both designers reinterpreting typical menswear with a feminine touch. The collection was full of eye-popping elements from colourful prints, glitter coats, brightly coloured outerwear, sequined coats and skirts. The models had slick back hair playing with the idea that women have masculinity embedded in them. The collection has classic tailoring with ruched sleeves and skirts with slits all over. Moreover, feminine touches were displayed through faux fur, glitter, and sequins. The collection took on an androgynous form towards the end of the show.

Watch the full fashion show here.

N°21 at Milan Fashion Week

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Italian brand N°21 released its autumn-winter 2021 collection at Milan Fashion Week. Founder and Italian designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua reflects his aesthetic of masculine meets feminine in this collection. Alessandro’s collection has some risqué designs by having shorter hemlines covered with fringing revealing underwear, bralette under styled jumpers, and sheer dresses. Not only women wore sheer clothing, but men also wore sheer shirts. Layering is a crucial element in this collection, whether it is layering outerwear over shirts or outerwear over undergarments. The colours used by Alessandro are dark earthy with pops of green and purple.

Watch the full fashion show here.

Alessandro Enriquez Autumn/Winter 2021 at Milan Fashion Week

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Alessandro Enriquez presented his 2021 autumn-winter collection at Milan Fashion Week. Italian born designer envisions the party life after the pandemic. As the short fashion film says, “new amore, new life, new table, new friends”. Enriquez’ collection uses incredibly vibrant colours, a mixture of oranges, reds, greens, blues and many more. There is a lot of creativity and playfulness in the collection. Enrique mixes clashing patterns and multiple prints; we see hearts, shapes inside circles, stars, floral. There are various silhouettes in this collection. To highlight the key looks, we see full-length skirts, shoulder pads, ruching, balloon sleeves, and for the menswear, we see a lot of trousers lower than the waist to highlight their colourful underwear, which blossomed the styling.

Watch the short fashion film here.

Erdem Autumn/Winter 2021 at London Fashion Week

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Erdem’s 2021 autumn-winter collection carries us to ballet. Margot Fonteyn inspired the performative show filmed at the Bridge Theatre in London. “The collection explores the juxtapositions of performance and rest, age and expectations, formal costume and informal clothing,” says Erdem.

For the show, Erdem employed models who were and are ballerinas. To reflect its ballet influence, the show was understandably performative with its gracefulness and movement. There were lots of motion in the garments themselves; the skirts and dresses had many flounces added with the pleating. We see the contrast between “costume wear and informal clothing.” The costumes were dazzling with sequins, feathers, beading and bold prints. From what seemed like informal clothing, we saw a mixture of silhouettes, ones with a cinched waist, fitted outerwear and the use of more straightforward prints.

Watch the full fashion show.

Danshan Autumn/Winter 2021 at London Fashion Week

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Danshan presented their 2021 autumn-winter collection titled Sentience at the beloved London Fashion Week. Danshan is a London based brand by Danxia (Dan) Liu and Shan Peng Wong, both Central Saint Martins’ graduates. Their aesthetics are exploring effeminising masculine silhouette. 

The collection uses various surface design techniques in the collection, including embroidery, distressing materials, and print. There’s also a use of contrasting fabrics such as satin, chiffon, wool, and jacquard. The overall silhouette of the collection is positively boxy, with a soft structural aesthetic.

Watch the full presentation here.